Preparing the Quilt Top

• FLAT

Flared, rippled borders, or fullness in the body of the quilt cannot be quilted out. Some quilting styles and patterns can help disguise this problem, but there may be some puckering in the body, or the edges may have tucks when the binding is sewn on.

• SQUARE

An out-of-square top won't roll onto the frame properly, or produce a quilt that is square. The adjacent sides should be at right angles and parallel sides should measure the same.

• PRESSED

Careful pressing during construction makes good quilting easier, and is especially important when stabilizing (usually stitching in the seams) a custom quilt.

• FREE OF EXCESS THREADS

Unclipped threads on the surface can get caught in the hopping foot. Dark threads left on the underside can show through lighter top fabrics.

• FREE OF PET HAIR

Pet hair left on the quilt could be quilted permanently into the quilt. Your quilter may have allergies, so removing pet hair could be quite important to the quilters health.

• FREE OF EMBELLISHMENTS

Embellishments, such as buttons, charms, pins, will not allow the quilt to roll smoothly and make it dangerous to quilt. The quilter needs to avoid embellishment, so it would impact the smoothness of the quilting. Quilting density could also be affected.

• MARKED AT THE CENTER OF THE TOP EDGE (PILLOW EDGE) WITH A SAFETY PIN

This helps the quilter determine which direction the quilting should run, and how to mount the top on the frame.

• Press the top well and consistently throughout the construction process. Carefully press the entire quilt top after it is pieced. This will not only prepare the top to be loaded onto the machine, but also gives you an opportunity to clip any hanging threads coming through seams. Left unclipped, these threads can be permanently stitched into the quilting or they could get tangled into the hopping foot. This requires the quilter to stop and take the time to untangle the machine. When the machine stops stitching, the quilting thread is clipped, leaving places where threads can later work loose.

• Remove any pet hair or other lint from the quilt top as you press it.

• Make sure your sewing machine is clean and well adjusted so that it doesn't skip stitches as you construct the quilt. Skipped stitches leave small holes in seams, which can spell disaster for the machine quilter. Since longarm machines run at a much greater speed than regular sewing machines, the needle stitches many times before it can be turned off. Any knotted thread must be picked out before the quilter can continue. The machine cannot be moved out of the way during this process because the hopping foot is usually trapped by the stitching.

• Be sure there are no dark threads shadowing through the light fabrics. When combining dark and light fabrics, threads that ravel from dark fabrics will end up permanently quilted into place. Since tops get handled, folded and manipulated in many ways as they are stitched, fabrics can ravel along the seams. Trim these ravellings away so that when the quilt is rolled, there will be few, if any, varicose veins to shadow through.

• Measure through the centre of your quilt when figuring the length of the border strips. If you find that your borders are wavy or flared, you may want to reapply them before having the top quilted to avoid tucks or pointy corners. Be sure to measure the quilt center in three places and take the average measurement as your border measurement. Always attach the quilt to the border, not the border to the quilt. If you have difficulty with flaring borders, ask for help from someone whose work you admire. Quilt shops and classes are especially helpful. Borders that ripple make it nearly impossible to quilt without pleats forming.

• Backstitch all the seams of the outer borders. When the quilt is loaded onto the machine and cranked taut enough for quilting, any unsecured seams may pull open. By simply backstitching the last border seams, the quilter won't have to worry about your seams splitting. If you final border is pieced, simply run a row of stitching 1/8" from the outer edge all the way around the quilt top. This helps stabilize the seams and keeps them from pulling out.

• Choose 100% cotton for your backing fabric. Poly/cotton & 100% polyesters stretch differently than cotton and can cause tucks & puckering during the quilting process . Polyester fabrics tend to pill and encourage "bearding", or migrating of the batting fibres to the surface of the quilt.

• Avoid the use of high thread count sheets or sheeting for backing. This type of sheet, especially a new one, causes poor tension and constant thread breakage. When you must use a sheet, prewash the sheet (ideally several times) to soften it. Avoid thin sheets which will not hold up over time.

• For best results select a printed backing fabric similar in colour to the quilting thread to be used on the top. Printed backings are especially desirable for tops which have been pieced from highly contrasting fabrics and which will be custom quilted. Backing fabric that contrasts highly with the thread color is the least attractive choice.

• Remove selvages from seams. Sew with a 5/8" seam allowance using 12 stitches per inch. Backstitch at the beginning and end. Press seams open.

• Cut your backing AND batting at least 4" larger than your top on all sides. Some quilters require the backing to be 6 to 8 " larger than the top. (Packaged batting does not need to be cut.) Cut the backing as square (90 degree corners) as possible. Ensure that all edges are straight.

• Press the backing well. Backing seams should be pressed open. It is just as important to take the time to press the backing as it is the top.

• Fold the backing carefully to prevent wrinkles.

• Cotton

Cotton batting is soft, drapable and thin enough to achieve the fine quilting stitches experienced quiltmakers desire. Cotton has the capacity for absorbing moisture, thus creating a cooling effect in the summer and natural warmth in winter. Cotton is also the batting of choice for those quilters interested in an all-natural quilt. If a quilt is made of 100% cotton fabrics, many quilters prefer to use a 100% cotton batting to complete their quilt. Be sure that the cotton batting you choose is clean and free of all seed waste. Small seed particles can cause difficulty in quilting if you hit them with your needle. In addition, seeds can secrete oils which could stain the surface of the quilt. Cotton batting is available in standard bed sizes and can be found in most stores that carry quilting supplies.

Cotton gives a traditional flat look to a quilt and drapes well. New research has produced a superior batting using needlepunch technology. These needlepunched cotton batts may be quilted as far as two to three inches apart. There are also cotton battings on the market that utilize a scrim to hold the fibers together. However, a scrim can make the quilt more difficult to needle and is usually made of polyester which means your quilt will no longer be all-natural.

• Wool

Wool batting, although expensive, offers many of the same qualities as cotton batting. It is soft, drapable, and when intricately quilted, gives a beautiful textural dimension to the quilt. Wool batting offers natural warmth with relatively little weight. For ease in handling and reduction in fiber migration, most wool batting is finished with a cheesecloth or lightweight fabric cover. Wool batting is produced from long virgin-wool fibers. First the wool is scoured to remove the dirt and yolk (natural oils). Then it is moth-proofed by impregnating the fibers with chemicals that resist moth larvae. The wool is then carded, where the fibers are opened, mixed and finally formed into an even blanket. Like cotton, the natural felting property of the wool fibers helps to hold the batting together.

• If you are interested in working with wool there are some warnings - wool has a great tendency to beard (bearding = fibers migrating through the quilt top and having a halo effect on the surface). The danger of moth damage to a wool batt quilt is extreme!

• Blended Fibers

• Cotton blends

For a long time the only cotton batting available was made of 100% cotton fiber. After years of research, a batting made from a blend of 80 percent cotton and 20 percent polyester was developed. This batting combines the easy handling and stability of polyester with the natural advantages of cotton. The blend of fibers promises and delivers lightweight warmth and an heirloom quality to quilts and clothing, yet resists fiber migration. Because it is bonded for stability, it is easy to use, even for beginners.

• Synthetic fibers

The invention of polyester batting revolutionized the quilting market. The ease in handling, along with the warmth and strength of polyester batting account for the widespread increase in the popularity of quilting. Inexperienced quiltmakers could now successfully make a quilt or comforter without the need for extensive hand quilting.

• Polyester batting

Polyester fiber is made from chemicals. Dacron®®, Kodel®®, Fortrel®®, and Trevira®® are a few of the well-known polyester fiber brands. Regardless of wear and washing, most polyester batting will return to its original shape because it is extremely resilient. It is lightweight, non-allergenic and cannot be harmed by moths or mildew. To produce batting, polyester fibers are fed into a carding machine where they are combed into parallel rows (layers) and laid into a blanket form by a machine called a crosslapper. The loft and weight of the batting will vary with the number of layers used in the blanket. Additional processes are necessary to produce the variety of polyester batting available today. The blanket, as it comes off the carding machine, is called unbonded batting. It is available in many weights and thicknesses, with three inch most often the thickest loft available commercially. Unbonded batting has many drawbacks. Its loose construction makes it difficult to work with, and often, high and low areas develop. Because there is no finish, the fibers tend to migrate (beard) through the fabric in the quilt, a problem of great concern for quiltmakers today. To lessen the chance of fiber migration, it is advisable to cover the unbonded batting with cheesecloth or a lightweight fabric. The high-loft, unbonded batting is a popular choice for tied comforters.

• Bonded Batting

Bonded batting, on the other hand, has a light resin coating or glaze applied to both sides of the batting. This coating adds strength and locks the fibers to help prevent fiber migration. The newer, heat-sealed fibers create a similar effect. Bonded batting usually has a higher loft and airier appearance than a needlepunched batt. It holds up well with use and does not require extensive quilting. Therefore, it is ideal for both comforters and quilts. Because it is so easy to handle, many quiltmakers prefer bonded batting above all others, for both machine and hand quilting.

• Needlepunched Batting

Needlepunched batting is made by a unique method which entangles the fibers to hold them together. The process for making this batting consists of passing the blanket of fibers through a needling machine called a fiber locker. The machine has a multitude of barbed needles or hooks mounted on a grid which vibrate up and down. The blanket passes through the barbed needles which pierce the blanket and entangle the fibers as they withdraw. This same process is used to make non-woven blankets. The loft of needlepunched batting varies depending on the number of layers in the blanket. When fewer layers are used, a low loft, soft batting results. This traditional type of batting is highly desirable to accentuate the fine details of quilting and is ideal for quilted clothing. If additional layers are added to the blanket, the result will be a warm, extra-thick batting, perfect for cold weather quilts and outdoor clothing.